by Tia Janowski
Surrounded by towering bookshelves, high ceilings, and opulent chandeliers, Malan Breton unveiled his AW25 collection at the stunning Gladstone Library during London Fashion Week on February 21st.
A true talent, being not only a designer but also a singer and filmmaker, Breton once again showcased his mastery in crafting a compelling fashion narrative. His collection was a bold fusion of drama, colour, and texture, seamlessly blending edgy ensembles, voluminous ball gowns and structured tailoring. Unified by a striking blue, black, and red colour palette, the collection showcased a dynamic interplay of tulle and leather, underscoring the versatility of Breton’s designs.
A collection featuring both menswear and womenswear, the garments pushed boundaries, embracing androgyny and fluidity. Each look was meticulously crafted, with menswear incorporating subtle feminine elements. In a 2017 interview with Vogue, Breton stated, “It’s important that men have an opportunity to enjoy fashion too with clothes that are colourful and playful, but are still very masculine.” Eight years later, this belief remains evident in his latest collection, where bold colours, fluid silhouettes, and striking details blurred traditional gender norms.
The show opened with an array of sharp, form-fitting leather looks in black and electric blue, complemented by slicked-back hair for a fierce, commanding presence. Plunging necklines, cinched waists, and long leather skirts exuded confidence, while tailored jackets, crisp white shirts, and ties added a masculine edge to the otherwise feminine silhouettes.
As the collection progressed, elegant black gowns with voluminous skirts and sculpted necklines took centre stage, demonstrating Breton’s skill in balancing structure with fluidity. Fishtail dresses emerged as a standout feature in the collection, with a sleek black gown adorned with a sweetheart neckline and a striking blue fishtail hem leaving the audience in awe. Matching blue gloves were added, which was a bold and cohesive touch that allowed for a modern, and rebellious nod to 1980s prom dresses.
In the latter half of the showcase, the collection transitioned to grandeur, with extravagant ball gowns in deep blues, greens, and blacks. Despite being more traditionally feminine than the earlier parts of the collection, their strong, sculptural silhouettes and fabric choices retained cohesion with the collection’s overall aesthetic. A standout piece was a dark green leather evening gown with an ultra-low waistline, exaggerated hips and bright blue gloves that tied it back to the rest of the collection.
A key theme in this collection was Breton’s bold experimentation with proportion. Exaggerated waistlines, unconventional seam placements, and structured enhancements played with classic silhouettes in striking ways. One prime example was a gown with an ultra-low waist, ruffled hips, and a voluminous tulle skirt, dramatic yet meticulously balanced. Dramatic hoods, capes, and trailing trains added an unexpected edge to traditionally elegant silhouettes.
Breton's meticulous attention to detail shone throughout the collection. Interwoven stripes, subtle patterns, and expert tailoring gave the garments an air of intrigue. Strategic pops of red, whether in the lining peeking through, the soles of shoes, or discreetly integrated into embroidery, provided
a vibrant contrast to the sea of blue and black. Each dress incorporated luxurious fabrics, from metallic textures with dual-toned blues to hidden floral patterns woven into the fabric. These intricate details added dimension to the designs, while floral embroidery enhanced both texture and visual appeal.
The runway soundtrack amplified the collection’s cinematic quality, seamlessly guiding the audience through the collection’s emotional journey. The music shifted between intense, dramatic beats with muffled voices to soaring classical compositions, mirroring the fusion of sophistication and edge in his designs.
Malan Breton’s AW 2025/26 collection captivated the audience with its fearless approach to femininity, masculinity, structure, and movement. From sleek leather garments to sweeping ball gowns, he delivered a powerful vision that celebrated confidence, glamour, and artistry. This collection left a lasting impression, proving once again that he is a master of storytelling through fashion, leaving us eager for his next creations.